WOW!!!!!!!

That is the only word which even comes close to describing Zion National Park as well as my response to it.  Although it's only 120 miles from the North Rim, it's very, very different and very, very beautiful. 

On Sunday, we drove to the Kolob Canyons, a separate and lightly-visited section of ZNP.  We picked up our permit for Monday's Subway hike and then did the Taylor's Creek Trail, a five-mile out-and-back that parallels the creek upstream to the Double-Arch Alcove.  Except for the entrance/exit, the route is flat and easy and zig-zags across the stream countless times,  refreshing breaks from the heat and bright sunshine.  Double-Arch Alcove was delightful--it offered shade, a cool breeze, smooth rocks for our picnic and lush banks of yellow columbine. 

On the return, I walked in the creek while Fred stayed on the trail.  When we re-united at a crossing, he mentioned spotting a rattlesnake, now slithering toward the over-hanging bank.  He coiled himself into the small cave and turned to watch us.  Evidently he didn't perceive us as a threat because he didn't warn us off with a rattle.

Early the next morning, we gathered the gear required for The Subway and drove to the trailhead.  After a short walk through the trees, we made the extremely steep 400' descent through loose rocks and sand--scary enough in itself but thinking about the ascent made it even more unnerving--to the  bottom of the canyon.  The Virgin River is neither wide nor deep but it is filled with twists, turns, rocks, boulders and flood debris.  I had assumed there was a defined trail to The Subway but it's an every-man-for-himself situation down there:  The 'best route' changes with the latest rockslide and/or flood. 

We set out early enough to have shade for the first hour or so, a relatively easy part.  We then scrambled and boulder-hopped for hours in full sun with occasional patches of shade and refreshing water-crossings.  In some places, sheer cliffs or huge boulders made walking along the bank impossible, forcing a choice between walking in the river or climbing above the obstacle.  On the way out, we chose the climbing option more frequently but by the way back, we'd learned that the river was usually the easier option.

"The Subway" is certainly an accurate name for this destination.  We rounded a bend and saw a large oval opening whose curves sides looked exactly like...a subway.   Entry was via the river; we had to proceed carefully over the upward-sloping rock bottom, threading our way through patches of slippery slime and pockets of powdery sand.  Inside was a series of pools, several so perfectly symmetrical they could have been man-made.  Beyond the small pools was a large one that stretched the entire width of the tunnel.  Going any farther required swimming, which we weren't prepared for, so we turned around and s-l-o-w-l-y crept down the slick decline. 

With our new-found knowledge about the river-walking option, going back was easier and quicker than getting there.  Along the way, we found the two immense white boulders that held dinosaur tracks.  Seeing them was quite a thrill but photographing them successfully challenging. 

All was going well.  Until we reached the bottom of the trail snaking up the 400' high cliff.  By then, it was afternoon, the trail was in full sun and we were tired.  That uphill scramble was hot, dusty and very steep but not as treacherous or difficult as I'd imagined.  Even though we were on last terrain, the distance between the top and the parking lot seemed infinite and we began to fear we'd taken a wrong turn. But, no--through the trees, a glimpse of a car in the parking lot!

We happily collapsed in the air-conditioned comfort of the motel, eventually showered and went to dinner.  Up early the next morning, we went grocery shopping, gassed up and drove 130 miles back to the Kaibab Plateau, arriving in time to report for work at 10.  A full, tiring but wonderful weekend!